Culture | World in a dish

How the chilli pepper has set fire to the internet in China

Thanks to Mao, the once-derided pepper quietly revolutionised Chinese palates

Aerial view of a farmer drying red chillies in China.
Photograph: Getty Images

Tianshui, a city tucked away in China’s north-western hills, does not normally make headline news. But a fiery soup that owes its unique flavour to locally grown Gangu chillies has lit up the internet. Since March, the hashtag #TianshuiMalatang, referring to a popular type of street food, has racked up more than 140m views on Weibo, a social-media platform. Millions have flocked to the city to try it themselves. A local chef was caught on tape looking so miserable at work that local authorities had to give him a talking-to so that he remembered to smile.

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This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Coming in hot ”

From the May 11th 2024 edition

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