Middle East & Africa | Heading for a break-up

A hidden refuge in Sudan that the internet, banks—and war—can’t reach

A visit to the Nuba mountains provides a glimpse into the future of the country

Displaced villagers collect leaves to eat due to the lack of food and assistance in the camp where they live on the outskirts of Julud, a rebel-held town in the Nuba mountains
Photograph: Moises Saman/Magnum Photos
|Kauda

TO GET TO Caen refugee camp in the Nuba mountains in Sudan, travel first to Juba, the capital of neighbouring South Sudan. Then catch a UN plane to fly 900km north. From there it is a day’s drive to Kauda, the de facto capital of a self-governing mountain statelet in South Kordofan state in southern Sudan. Once registered with the rebel group that runs it, drive four hours to Caen, passing through mud-brick villages along rocky crags, with no market or petrol station in sight.

From the January 18th 2025 edition

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