Europe | Temptation islands

Aland is lovely, weapon-free and too close to Russia

Finland worries the demilitarised islands could fall prey in a conflict

Panorama view of a landscape near Jarso at Aland archipelago in Finland
Sea of tranquilityPhotograph: Imago
|Aland

“Everything has become more intense,” murmurs Juri Jalava as his coastguard cutter plies the waters of the Aland Islands. Tension with Russia means he is spending longer at sea than ever: “We do not want to be caught out.” Aland, a Skye-sized island surrounded by 7,000 islets and rocks, is awkward for Finland. Over 95% of its trade passes through or near the islands, as do crucial data and electricity cables linked to the rest of Europe. But Finland is bound by treaty to keep these Swedish-speaking islands demilitarised in peacetime. They have been so since the Crimean War, when Britain and France tried to strangle Russian trade through the Baltic.

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This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “Temptation islands”

From the September 21st 2024 edition

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