Europe | Charlemagne

Europe is grappling with its dodgy memorials, a plinth at a time

The war in Ukraine has led to purges in Soviet-era statues

Memento Park, in Budapest’s southern suburbs, offers a glimpse of the glorious future communists once promised. Statues of muscular workers lunge confidently forward, the better to crush capitalism; unsuccessfully as it turned out. Dozens of likenesses of Lenin, Marx and their Hungarian ideological enforcers stare into the distance. These monuments dotted the Hungarian capital before central Europe shook off the Soviet yoke in 1989. The open-air museum, inaugurated a few years later, was an elegant solution to an intractable problem: how to place public displays of tyranny out of sight without resorting to the destruction of heritage of the sort tyrants themselves favour. As if to underline the rout of socialism, a “Red Star” gift shop offers joke USSR tin mugs, and visitors can recreate the experience of East German motoring by pushing a beaten-up Trabant around.

This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “Cancel sculpture”

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