On the beach
Artificial reefs can now be designed to make waves that are perfect for surfing
THERE are waves to be found on every coastline. But truly great waves—the sort, say, that a Hawaiian king would be content to surf on—are sufficiently scarce that in the fifth century the rulers of Hawaii saw fit to set aside certain surfing beaches for their use alone.
This article appeared in the Science & technology section of the print edition under the headline “On the beach”
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