Michel Roux died on March 11th
The chef and restaurateur who, with his brother, transformed British dining was 78
THE SIGHT was so awful that Michel Roux, then only in his 20s and new to London, quickly turned his face away. Through the window of the Lyons Corner House near Marble Arch he could see people eating British peas. The peas were fluorescent, big as quails’ eggs. And there was worse: on each side-plate a piece of sliced bread, limp as a handkerchief and bleached frighteningly white. He realised then that he had come to a land that was still in the culinary Dark Ages. And it was all Albert’s fault.
This article appeared in the Obituary section of the print edition under the headline “Cooking with Albert”
Obituary March 28th 2020
From the March 28th 2020 edition
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