Water into wine

Few insiders will admit it, but the dirty little secret about Californian wines today is that many of them are adulterated. That happens to be no bad thing

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“I'M NOT drinking any fucking merlot,” screams Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, in the marvellous Oscar-winning movie “Sideways”. Instead, the luckless writer turned obsessive oenophile waxes lyrical on the subtleties of pinot noir. So lyrical, in fact, that wine stores across America report soaring sales of Californian wine made from the delicate, thin-skinned pinot noir grape. Constellation Brands, for example, saw sales of its Blackstone pinot noir leap by 147% in the first three months after “Sideways” opened in America's cinemas in October 2004.

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