Still much too oily

FROM the top of the Fortaleza de São Miguel, a 16th-century Portuguese citadel that once dominated the Angolan capital, you see an army of cranes erecting high-rise offices, fancy hotels and blocks of smart flats. Luanda’s traffic zooms below on an eight-lane highway, as pedestrians amble among palm trees or play basketball on the Marginal, a renovated, spotless promenade. “You almost forget you are in sub-Saharan Africa,” says a foreign businessman well acquainted with the region.