Europe | Much at stake

The French debate the future of steak frites

Can you be left wing and eat red meat?

Steak and chips by the fireside.
National identity on a plateImage: Alamy
|PARIS

In Europe today, meat is politics. Britain’s ruling Conservatives recently accused the Labour opposition (falsely) of plans for a “meat tax”. Poland’s outgoing governing party claimed (absurdly) that its opponents would force people to eat “worms instead of meat”. In France, where consumption per person of meat is twice the global average, the debate has taken a different twist: is it possible to be left-wing and still eat meat?

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This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “Much at stake”

From the October 28th 2023 edition

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