Europe | Charlemagne

Why Europe’s traditional foods are not always what they seem

A hungry columnist does some seasonal research

Trudging around Prague’s narrow streets makes for hungry work. What better way to cap off a spot of sightseeing than with a local delicacy? How about a trdelnik? Throw a cobblestone in any direction in the Czech capital these days and it is likely to land on a stand peddling the unpronounceable snack. Think of it as a Danish pastry crossed with a rotisserie chicken: sweet dough is wrapped around a metal spit and theatrically twirled over glowing charcoals until browned, then dipped in nuts and sugar. The “old Bohemian speciality” advertised by the jolly vendor warms the hands on a chilly wintertime stroll; in summer it can be used as an ice-cream cone. Either way, for a few tasty minutes one can imagine oneself a burgher of medieval Prague, indulging a sweet tooth while traipsing over Charles Bridge. Dobrou chut!

This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “Food of the frauds”

From the December 24th 2022 edition

Discover stories from this section and more in the list of contents

Explore the edition

More from Europe

The Russian Army Attacked Kherson With Guided Bombs

Russian trainee pilots appear to be hunting Ukrainian civilians

Residents of Kherson are dodging murderous drones

The “Trumpnado”, a wave shaped like Donald Trump's profile, crushing a boat with a European flag.

Can the good ship Europe weather the Trumpnado?

Tossed by political storms, the continent must dodge a new threat


Demonstrators march, shouting slogans against tourists in Barcelona

Spain’s proposed house tax on foreigners will not fix its shortage

Pedro Sánchez will need the opposition’s help to increase supply


A French-sponsored Ukrainian army brigade has been badly botched

The scandal reveals serious weaknesses in Ukraine’s military command

A TV dramatisation of Mussolini’s life inflames Italy

With Giorgia Meloni in power, the fascist past is more relevant than ever

France’s new prime minister is trying to court the left

François Bayrou gambles with Emmanuel Macron’s economic legacy