Europe | Charlemagne

Why Europe’s traditional foods are not always what they seem

A hungry columnist does some seasonal research

Trudging around Prague’s narrow streets makes for hungry work. What better way to cap off a spot of sightseeing than with a local delicacy? How about a trdelnik? Throw a cobblestone in any direction in the Czech capital these days and it is likely to land on a stand peddling the unpronounceable snack. Think of it as a Danish pastry crossed with a rotisserie chicken: sweet dough is wrapped around a metal spit and theatrically twirled over glowing charcoals until browned, then dipped in nuts and sugar. The “old Bohemian speciality” advertised by the jolly vendor warms the hands on a chilly wintertime stroll; in summer it can be used as an ice-cream cone. Either way, for a few tasty minutes one can imagine oneself a burgher of medieval Prague, indulging a sweet tooth while traipsing over Charles Bridge. Dobrou chut!

This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “Food of the frauds”

From the December 24th 2022 edition

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