The French are fretting over a sudden butter shortage
But forget about making croissants with margarine
“IT’S A true catastrophe, monsieur,” says a baker in central Paris as she places warm, flaky croissants in a paper bag. The price of local butter has soared in the past year, she says: “We are used to costs going up, but this is really extreme.” Her pastry counter is well stocked, but margins per croissant are squeezed.
This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “Sacré beurre”
From the November 4th 2017 edition
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