Culture | Back Story

On some holidays, beauty and bloodshed are entwined

In grand old cities like Verona, your gelato comes with a moral education

Picturesque view of Piazza Bra and Verona Arena amphitheater lit up in the moonlight, Verona, Italy.
Photograph: Alamy

He survived seven bouts in the arena at Verona, but at the age of 23 Glaucus was slain in his eighth. When it was built in 30AD the arena stood outside the Roman city—to keep away the stench of death. Glaucus was one of countless fighters, prisoners and exotic beasts who shed their blood on its sandy floor over centuries of grisly games.

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This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Guts and glory in Verona”

From the August 17th 2024 edition

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