Culture | Bottles up

Wine collectors are at last taking champagne seriously

Prices have, in turn, been bubbly

A wine rack with a bottle of champagne with the cork popped shooting off
Illustration: Rob en Robin
|Paris

NAPOLEON BONAPARTE was a champagne enthusiast. He became friends with the heir to Moët & Chandon, now the world’s largest seller of French bubbly, while studying at a military academy. Later, as emperor, Napoleon stopped in Épernay on his way to, and back from, war. “In victory, you deserve champagne; in defeat, you need it,” he said.

This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Bottles up”

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