When in Mexico City, try pulque, a local tipple
The fermented drink demonstrates the allure of booze made by hand
IT IS FRIDAY morning, and the Mercado de Xochimilco, in southern Mexico City, is bustling. Over the road is a squat building which, from the outside, looks dead, its shutters drawn and doors closed. Pushing them open reveals a utilitarian space: linoleum floors, formica-topped tables, sturdy wooden chairs. Above a counter are posters on which are handwritten apio (celery), cacahuete (peanut), mamey (a soft orange fruit) and avena (oats). These are flavours of pulque, a drink made for millennia that offers both an alcoholic kick and an insight into the ancient culture of booze.
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This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Down the Mexican way”
Culture March 25th 2023
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