Culture | World in a dish

The quest for the perfect chip

Triple-cooked chips may be Heston Blumenthal’s most influential dish

Image: Courtesy of The Fat Duck

It is easy to see why so many classic recipes are difficult to cook. A gleaming duck pâté en croûte, a deeply savoury mole poblano, a vast timballo, a perfectly clear consommé: they all involve long tallies of ingredients, tricksy processes and towers of specialist equipment.

This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Fry and stop him”

From the January 14th 2023 edition

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