Mooncakes, an ancient tradition, are constant yet variable
Like other holiday treats, they are also a lot of work
At the southern end of Manhattan the grid system comes undone, and the streets converge like electric cables at the bottom of a junk drawer. Chinese immigrants have flocked to the neighbourhood for well over a century. Trend-obsessed eaters shun this Chinatown for the one in Flushing, or glitzier spots in the East Village. But nowhere in New York offers such a wealth of old-school Cantonese delicacies: crackling roast pork, carefully seasoned seafood and, at this time of year, soft, golden mooncakes.
This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Promising the moon”
Culture September 17th 2022
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