Asia | Food fetish

Singapore’s government is determined to keep hawker centres alive

Why is the city-state’s bare-bones government running a bureaucracy of stir-fries?

A hawker Centre in Singapore
Photograph: Alamy
|Singapore

Welfare is “a dirty word” in Singapore—or so a past prime minister, Lee Hsien Loong, once approvingly declared. What the city-state prizes, he explained, was not handouts, but self-reliance. Workers do not receive a state pension, but pay instead into individual retirement accounts. Health care, too, must be purchased from mandatory savings, not dispensed by a spendthrift state. There is no minimum wage, and no subsidies for staples such as rice or electricity. Oddly, though, there is one aspect of everyday life that almost no other governments get involved in but that the Singaporean authorities are not willing to leave to the vicissitudes of the market: eating out.

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This article appeared in the Asia section of the print edition under the headline “Food fetish”

From the December 21st 2024 edition

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