Asia | Dangerous shoals

A rotting warship becomes a flashpoint for Sino-American rivalry

Its Philippine guards hold out against China’s expansion in the South China Sea

Philippine navy ship BRP Sierra Madre is seen at the Second Thomas Shoal locally known as Ayungin Shoal at the South China Sea on April 23, 2023
Staking a claimImage: AP
|MANILA

SHE BEGAN life as USS LST-821, an American wartime landing ship for tanks. As the USS Harnett County, she became a base for river boats and helicopter gunships during the Vietnam war. Later as South Vietnam’s My Tho, she carried refugees fleeing the fall of Saigon in 1975. Now a rusting hulk named the BRP Sierra Madre, she is serving in what may be her most celebrated role yet—as a Philippine outpost defying mighty China.

This article appeared in the Asia section of the print edition under the headline “Dangerous shoals”

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