United States | Indigenous cuisine

Native American chefs are cooking up a culinary renaissance

Crickets, blue corn and bison tartare

A bowl full of heritage

SEAN SHERMAN reckons he uses 25 pounds (11 kilos) of crickets a week: “Pretty much every table buys some.” His restaurant, Owamni by the Sioux Chef, opened in Minneapolis in July and serves Native American fare. Customers can feast on blue-corn mush and bison tartare. Though indigenous restaurants remain scarce, they are spreading. Recent openings include Wapehpah’s Kitchen in Oakland, California, and Watecha Bowl in Sioux Falls, South Dakota.

This article appeared in the United States section of the print edition under the headline “Crickets, blue corn and bison tartare”

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