Microbes are being used more and more to make delicious food

THE FETID salinity of prosciutto, bresaola’s jaw-wearying toughness and the pallid greasiness of lardo, which is cured solid fat, all have their fans—if not, normally, among those in the business of keeping arteries clean. But the single best cured meat in the world comes from north-eastern Thailand. Rice, pork, garlic, salt and herbs are stuffed into a casing and left at room temperature for a few days. When cooked, this naem has a robust pigginess. But it is best eaten raw, with chilies and garlic cloves.