Trying to get past oil

GABON, in west-central Africa, is among Africa’s least densely populated countries. Fly south from the capital, Libreville, in a helicopter and you will mostly see rainforest, stretching endlessly into the distance, interrupted only by rivers cutting through to the Atlantic Ocean. Yet suddenly, near a town called Mouila, the dense forest gives way to orderly rows of palms, separated by roads of red earth. A processing factory sits in the middle, its metal roof sticking out from the expanse of green.